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A small trick learnt from Bappa da long back... keep some old water during water change, fish/shrimps can be rescued if something like that happens.

That's a great tip! I drain my old water into a five liter bottle (the ones that come with battery water) and I have got about 3 of these so this tip fits me just fine. Its like one of those times when one says "how logical, why did i not realise this thing!". Once again thank you prajjwal and Bappada too.

Abhi wrote:Vishaal, there is definetly something wrong with the water, first your fishes went down with bloat, then one of mine and now the reaction of the shrimps. I have finalized the idea of storing water and running a filter with carbon/zeolite/purigen before a water change.

Purigen would be useless as it is good for organic matter removal and does not affect trace elements. I am getting some carbon today.

I was discussing the problem with Abhi as the same thing happened yesterday during a top up. the phone got disconnected, but I guess it was on our minds because in 10 minutes we spoke again and Abhi told me to check the PH.

1. PH in the tanks 8.5 to 9
2. PH in tap water 7 to 7.5

Now both of us were searching for reasons for this Increase.
1. the problem must have been there but came to light in a 25% water change.
2. All other parameters were the same other than the fact that I had discontinued Glute after the first signs of problem.(another mistake)
3. we could not pinpoint the reason for the increase. then on a thread of an Idea i checked the ph of the Desert cooler water WHAM 12-13

so in the last 4-5 days the temperatures have been higher than earlier and there was more water evaporating from the tanks leading in an increase in the PH and alkalinity.

the only remedy now is to do 1-1.5 liter water changes every day.

one question to all
Can we use cationic or anionic dealkalizer resins.

Indeed Vishaal, the more you change your water the more you can change your water! With impunity. That's one of the reasons why I do daily Water changes. With frequent water changes the tank water comes closer and closer to the tap water allowing you the option of larger water changes as and when required although I still stick to small frequent water changes. When water remains in the tank for let's say a week or so it develops its own chemistry as per the tank's physiology. Every water change especially if large results in a reset to tap water chemistry.

This is why until a few years ago it was widely advised by experienced keepers that tanks should be adjusted to the local water supply and not the other way around. I assume that with the spread of easily available RO units it became quite easy to soften water and this piece of advice became obsolete for I hardly see this being bandied about nowadays.

During the natives shipping I noticed that the pH of my tanks was significantly higher than that of the water in the bags (which was close to 7 actually) so maybe mature tanks with little organic decomposition going on tend to increase their pH.

By the way excellent work on identifying the cause of your problem! Kudos to both Sherlocks! In the absence of hi-finda science in the hobby we have to rely on empirical knowledge and this was just great. That's a pH difference of 2 Logs.

VishaalDalal wrote: one question to all
Can we use cationic or anionic dealkalizer resins.

yes.
ROs are a quite "recent" development. before that, maybe 10-20 years ago cation and anion exchanger resins were the only possibility to produce soft water out of hard water. all discus breeders and other soft water fish breeders had one...still many people believe that it has advantages compared to RO...but i have no idea which ones

Aren't dealkalizer resins anionic? I mean don't they exchange only the anion. AFAIK carbonate and bicarbonate (both weak anions) are trapped and chloride (strong anion) is given up in exchange.

An easier and probably cheaper option would be to continue small frequent water changes and bring your tank nearer to your water supply in chemistry. But that's a personal outlook, mine only for I am more of a off hobbyist.

deepesh wrote:Aren't dealkalizer resins anionic? I mean don't they exchange only the anion. AFAIK carbonate and bicarbonate (both weak anions) are trapped and chloride (strong anion) is given up in exchange.

An easier and probably cheaper option would be to continue small frequent water changes and bring your tank nearer to your water supply in chemistry. But that's a personal outlook, mine only for I am more of a off hobbyist.

Dear Deepesh this is actually the best way but unfortunately I believe that our supply water chemistry changes quire frequently.(not sure though)

VishaalDalal wrote: Dear Deepesh this is actually the best way but unfortunately I believe that our supply water chemistry changes quire frequently.(not sure though)

if it is for a smaller tank, then RO water with addition of minerals (Ca, Mg, etc.) would be the safest option